If you were asked to think of a great wine producing region you might name one of the big boys. There are the obvious contenders: France, Germany, Spain, Australasia, North America and South Africa. However, if you’re looking for a country that’s currently making waves in the winemaking world, then you should turn your attention to the incredible vintages coming out of the Ukraine.

With yield dependent on so many factors, some of them uncontrollable, winemaking has always been a business that requires a remarkable amount of resilience, and nowhere is this truer than in the Ukraine. On top of the usual struggles with climate and the natural conditions which can have huge repercussions on a particular vintage, the country continues to deal with enormous geopolitical upheaval and a brutal conflict currently taking place on its own soil. 

And yet, even in the throes of war, the country’s winemakers are at the forefront of a viticultural renaissance, combining historic techniques with new technologies to produce some truly remarkable wines. From the rolling hills of the Carpathians to the sun-kissed shores of the Black Sea, vineyards are flourishing, producing wines that are increasingly recognised on the global stage, and UK buyers – including DrinksOne – are rushing to show their support.

Ukrainian wine may be new to the UK, but the country has a rich winemaking tradition that dates back all the way to 4th century BC, before booming in the 18th and 19th centuries as new varieties from neighbouring countries moved in. However, the country has faced numerous challenges over the years, including the 1985-1988 anti-alcohol campaign instigated by the then Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev, which led to the destruction of a significant number of vineyards, but the Ukraine inevitably bounced back. The 2014 invasion of Crimea also compromised Ukraine’s biggest source of grapes, but rather than halting production, this simply meant winemakers pivoted to new regions including Lviv and Kyiv. 

With Ukrainian wine seen as a marker of national pride business is booming, and the constant push for innovation is producing some really interesting and unique bottles that are competing with some of the best out there.

Today there are some 110 wineries across 36,600 hectares, an area equivalent to plantings in Piedmont; there are five very big estates, and some tiny producers making fewer than 10,000 bottles each year, but the majority produce between 20,000 and 60,000 bottles. These developing, and ‘unofficial’ wine regions – (west to east) Lviv, Ternopil, Khmelnitsky, Vinnitsa Kyiv, Chernihiv, Dnipro and Kharkiv – produce high-acidity and aromatic white wines and very bright rosés. Some winemakers are trying their hand at producing amber and sparkling wines, too.

Experimentation is widespread, even while the winemakers navigate the unprecedented challenges caused by war. Wines are emerging produced by varied approaches, ranging from ancient Georgian techniques such as qvevri, to the most modern methods. And, with the country in the spotlight, even if for tragic reasons, the world is taking notice.

We wanted to spotlight some of our favourite producers from the country. Here are some of the best brands we think you should be getting acquainted with in 2024 and beyond….

Biologist 

Ukraine’s first organic and biodynamic winery located in the village of Lisnyky near Kyiv. Established in 2019, Biologist may be young but they’re already making a big impact. They grow a number of native and international varieties, including Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, Saperavi, Grüner Veltliner, Müller-Thurgau, Weissburgunder, Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Chardonnay, Aligote, and the indigenous grape variety, Telti-Kuruk. Their first wine, Pershotvir, means “the first creation“ and was limited to just 3000 bottles.

To increase the immunity of the vine and soil, the winemaker Igor Petrenko abandoned artificial chemicals like herbicides and pesticides and began to use plant and mineral products, alongside low intervention (using herbal and mineral products) and natural fermentation processes, with strict temperature control. They use only mature grapes and undamaged berries, carefully selecting the very best to go into their wines. 

We recommend: Biologist Aligote

Beykush 

This family-owned winery spans 14ha and is located in Chernomorka village, on the Beykush peninsula by the Black Sea, just 2km from the occupied area. Beykush has a unique terroir whose shores are washed on one side by Berezansky Liman, on the other by Bekush Bay. 

It embraces French, Italian and Georgian clones alongside the rare Telti-Kuruk grape. From traditional-method sparkling to amphora-aged wines, its experimentation captures the essence of this special terroir and Ukraine’s famed merging of varieties and techniques.

Their wines are often unconventional blends or rare experimental varieties that give excellent results. They “rethink Western technologies for [their] realities” and the resulting wines show the immense potential of the land, as well as the benefits of their experimental and innovative approach.

We recommend: Beykush Telti Kuruk

Frumushika-Nova 

‘Frumushika-Nova’ roughly translates as ‘the new beauty’.  Located in the Odesa region, it’s just 50km from the border with Moldova and is operated by sheep farmer and entrepreneur Alexander Palariev, and the wine country shares space with his 5000 karakul sheep. They produce natural, unfiltered wine using a mix of experimental and traditional techniques, with a focus on native grape variety, Sukholimanskiy. This white grape variety was created in the second half of the 20th century by the Odesa Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking. Wines from this variety have a light golden colour, rich fruity aroma with tones of pear and white flowers, and light notes of nutmeg and a slight sourness in the aftertaste. Try if you want something at the funkier end of the spectrum.

We recommend: Frumushika Nova Sukholimanske Unfiltered

Stakovsky 

Created by top ranking Ukrainian tennis player and Olympian Sergiy Stakhovsky, who decided to get into winemaking in 2015 after discovering a passion for the vine while competing in Bordeaux, France. An athlete who thrived on discipline, until that point Stakhovsky had vehemently believed that alcohol had no place in his world, but the conviviality of a team dinner changed everything, and his eyes were opened to the joys of a good glass of wine. He didn’t just fall in love with the moment, but the whole culture of wine. He rented 20 hectares in Zakarpattia and began to cultivate the existing grape varieties Merlot, Saperavi, Rose Traminer, Chardonnay, Riesling, Zweigelt, and Cabernet Sauvignon. For two years the team diligently planted, applying the same rigour they would with world-class sporting training,  and had their first successful harvest in 2018 which produced vintages including “ACE by Stakhovsky” Merlot, “ACE by Stakhovsky” Saperavi and “W by Stakhovsky” Traminer.

As befits a winemaker inspired by French techniques, these are more conventional but no less exceptional in taste and quality.

We recommend: Stakhovsky Ace Cabernet Sauvignon

Despite the continued threats to the country, Ukraine is at the forefront of an exciting new frontier for winemakers, and we’re proud to be supporting them in their journey. These are wines made with dynamism, innovation, tradition and passion. If you’d like something new for your cellar (or wine rack!), these are the winemakers for you.

Your Guide to Ukrainian Grape Varieties

Odesa Black (Alibernet)

This red grape called Odesa Black, or Alibernet, originates from the crossing of Alicante Bouschet and Cabernet Sauvignon. This variety was created in 1948 by Tairov Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking in Odesa. Odesa Black is grown in Ukraine as well in Slovakia, Czech Republic and Hungary. It is notoriously difficult to work with, yet when tamed it produces dark, intense and fruity red wines with distinct mint and black berry aromas and velvety jam notes.

Telti-Kuruk

Telti-Kuruk is also known as “fox tail”, named due to the unusual shape of the bunch, which resembles the tip of a fox’s tail. This white indigenous grape is classified as Vitis vinifera, and belongs to a group of varieties of the Black Sea basin. It’s indigenous to Ukraine and can only be found there. It has survived the phylloxera epidemic, which knocked down most of the vineyards in Europe. 

Telti-Kuruk produces wines of a fresh and distinctly mineral character. On the nose, floral and fruity notes are clearly audible, mostly white acacia and ripe quince. On the palate this wine is round, full-bodied, with minerality notes characteristic of the terroir, and a fresh, slightly bitter finish.

Citron Magarach

A white grape variety created by Magarach Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking in Yalta. The colour of the wine is from light straw to amber yellow. The aroma has pronounced citrus tones with a predominance of orange and lime, with easily guessed notes of banana and pineapple. The palate is quite full and round with low acidity and a long aftertaste. Due to its good frost resistance, it is popular in Northern wine-growing regions of Ukraine.

Sukholimanskiy white

This white grape variety was created in the second half of the 20th century by the Odessa Institute of Viticulture and Winemaking. Wines from this variety have a light golden colour, rich fruity aroma with tones of pear and white flowers, light notes of nutmeg. It has a harmonious taste with notes of melon, white plum and pleasant sourness in the aftertaste.